If you have Type 4 hair, you already know it’s a crown worth cherishing—full of coils, kinks, and curls that turn heads. But when it comes to growing it long and healthy? That’s where patience, the right routine, and a little science come into play. Type 4 hair is naturally more fragile than other textures because of its tight curl pattern, which can make it prone to dryness, tangles, and breakage.

The good news? With the right care, you can absolutely achieve length and strength without sacrificing the beauty of your texture. In this guide, we’ll break down exactly how to grow Type 4 hair—covering moisture, protective styling, and all the little habits that add up to big results. Whether your goal is shoulder-grazing twists, waist-length braids, or simply healthier coils, you’re about to get the blueprint.

1. Understand Your Type 4 Hair Structure

type 4 hair 4a 4b 4c — Credit: iseehair.com

Before you can grow your hair long and healthy, you have to understand what you’re working with. Type 4 hair has a tight curl pattern, which makes it beautifully voluminous but also more fragile. It comes in three main subtypes:

4A: Small, S-shaped coils that have a visible curl pattern and moderate shrinkage.
4B: Tighter Z-shaped coils with less curl definition and more shrinkage.
4C: Very tight, dense coils with the most shrinkage and minimal visible definition.

The tighter the curl, the harder it is for your scalp’s natural oils to travel down the hair shaft. This is why Type 4 hair can be more prone to dryness and breakage. One mistake people make is following routines made for looser curl types, which simply don’t provide enough moisture or protection.

💡 Pro Tip: Learn your subtype, but also remember that many people have a mix of patterns on their head. Your routine should adapt to your driest and most fragile areas.

2. Prioritize Moisture Above Everything

If you take away just one thing from this guide, let it be this: moisture retention is the foundation of Type 4 hair growth.

Create a Moisture-Friendly Wash Day

Use a Sulfate-Free, Moisturizing Shampoo: Harsh shampoos strip away the little natural oil you have. Wash every 1–2 weeks to avoid dryness.
Co-Wash in Between: A cleansing conditioner can refresh your hair mid-week without stripping moisture.

Deep Condition Like It’s a Ritual

Deep conditioning replenishes lost moisture and strengthens your strands. Ingredients like shea butter, aloe vera, honey, and avocado oil are excellent choices. Skipping this step is a major growth killer.

Master the LOC or LCO Method

This technique locks in hydration for days:

Liquid – water or a leave-in conditioner
Oil – castor, jojoba, or olive oil to seal in the liquid
Cream – a thick cream to lock in everything

Common Moisture Mistake: Applying oil to dry hair without adding water first. Oil seals don’t hydrate, so without water, you’re just coating dry hair.

3. Reduce Breakage with Gentle Handling

Type 4 hair isn’t “weak,” but it is delicate. The curl pattern creates natural weak points along the strand. Handling it roughly will undo months of growth in days.

Detangle the Right Way

Always detangle when damp or wet.
Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers.
Work in sections from the ends upward.

Be Mindful After Washing

Instead of rubbing your hair with a towel (which causes friction and breakage), blot it gently with a microfiber towel or a soft cotton T-shirt.

Limit Heat Exposure

If you must use heat, apply a heat protectant and keep the setting low. Excessive blow-drying and flat-ironing can cause irreversible cuticle damage.

💡 Pro Tip: Invest in a hooded dryer or steamer for deep conditioning—gentle heat can help treatments penetrate without the damage of direct heat styling.

4. Use Protective Styles the Smart Way

Protective styles are one of the best tools for length retention—but only when done correctly. Some of the benefits of protecttive styling include:

Reduce daily manipulation
Minimize tangles and knots
Shield ends from environmental stress

Rules for Healthy Protective Styling for Type 4 Hair

Don’t Keep Styles In Too Long: Four to eight weeks is ideal. Beyond that, you risk matting and breakage during take-down.
Care for Hair Underneath: Clean your scalp and keep it moisturized while in braids, twists, or under wigs.
Avoid Tight Styles: Pulling too tightly on edges can cause traction alopecia, which is sometimes permanent.

Common Mistake: Thinking “protective style” means “neglect.” If your hair isn’t moisturized under a style, it will break the second you take it down.

5. Keep Your Scalp Healthy

Your scalp is the foundation of healthy growth—think of it like the soil where your hair grows.

Keep it Clean. Product buildup clogs follicles and can slow growth. A gentle shampoo every 1–2 weeks is essential, even when protective styling.

Regular scalp massages with oils like peppermint, rosemary, or tea tree oil can encourage growth. Massage for 5 minutes a few times a week. Lastly, Petroleum-based products can trap dirt and suffocate follicles. Choose lightweight oils instead.

6. Trim When Necessary

A trim isn’t about making your hair grow faster—it’s about helping it look and feel healthy while preventing breakage from traveling up the strand.

When to Trim: Every 3–4 months or when you see split ends and knots.
How Much to Trim: Use the dusting method if you want to keep as much length as possible.

Also, don´t ignore split ends for too long. This often results in having to cut off more hair later.

7. Eat and Drink for Healthy Hair

What goes into your body is just as important as what you put on your hair.

Nourish from the Inside Out

Never rely solely on hair vitamins while eating an unbalanced diet. Supplements work best alongside nutritious meals.

Protein: Eggs, fish, chicken, beans, nuts—hair is made mostly of protein.
Iron & Zinc: Leafy greens, seeds, and lentils support strong follicles.
Omega-3 Fatty Acids: Found in fish, flaxseeds, and walnuts for scalp health.

Stay Hydrated

Dry hair often starts from the inside. Aim for at least 2 liters of water daily.

8. Be Consistent. The process is going to be slow, but totally worth it!

Hair grows at an average of half an inch per month. With shrinkage, that progress may not be visible, which leads many to give up too soon.

Stick with a routine for 3–6 months before changing products.
Take monthly photos to track your length.
Celebrate small wins, like reduced breakage or more defined curls.

Recommended Products for type 4 hair growth

Category	Product	Why It’s Great for Type 4 Hair
Shampoo	SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo	Sulfate-free, deeply cleanses without stripping natural oils.
Co-Wash	As I Am Coconut CoWash Cleansing Conditioner	Gently cleans while adding slip for detangling.
Deep Conditioner	TGIN Honey Miracle Hair Mask	Packed with honey and olive oil for deep hydration and softness.
Leave-In Conditioner	Kinky-Curly Knot Today Leave-In/Detangler	Lightweight, great slip, perfect for LOC/LCO methods.
Sealant Oil	Jamaican Black Castor Oil (Sunny Isle or Tropic Isle Living)	Excellent for sealing moisture and supporting thickness.
Cream/Moisturizer	Camille Rose Almond Jai Twisting Butter	Rich, nourishing, perfect for twist-outs and braids.
Scalp Oil	Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Scalp & Hair Strengthening Oil	Stimulates scalp circulation and nourishes follicles.
Protective Styling Aid	Murray’s Edgewax Extreme Hold	Keeps styles neat without drying alcohols.

If you’re ready to start building your growth routine, the products above are all solid, well-loved choices that work for many in the Type 4 hair community. I’ve linked them to make it easier for you to grab what you need and start your healthy hair journey today. Of course, consistency is more important than trying every product on the market. Pick your favorites, stick with them for at least 3–6 months, and watch your coils thrive.

How to Grow Type 4 Hair Long & Healthy? Expert Tips You Need to Know